In 1890, lumberman James Haines built a wooden flume 54 miles long through the Sierra Nevada, dropping 4,500 feet from the high timber to the railhead below. Logs entered at the top and arrived at…

The log hit him above the hip and folded him into the trough. For a moment Per Nygard was still on the catwalk, and then he was in the water, and the current had him. The flume was running full, a 20-foot green log weighing the better part of a ton directly behind him, and the walls of the wooden channel were moving past faster than a man could run. He took one breath.

Thumbnail

He rode the flume for most of a mile before the current wedged him under a stringer, and he drowned there. The crew recovered his body the next morning. The Carson and Tahoe Lumber and Fluming Company paid Astrid forty dollars and his last two weeks of wages. His notebook came with the money.

Weather, distance walked, pitch used. Three entries a week, in a small leather pocket book he had kept in his coat. She had been waiting for him in Stillwater, Minnesota, for the spring he had promised in his letters. His headstone there was paid for by the Norwegian Lutheran Church.

It reads: Per Nygard, died in California, 1891. The flume that killed him ran fifty-four miles down the eastern slope of the Sierra Nevada. It was built in 1890 by a lumberman named James Haines, who was born in Vermont in 1830 and came west after the Civil War with a brother and a small bank draft. Haines had worked a season in the mines around Virginia City, Nevada, and got out before the silver played out.

By 1875 he was cutting timber on the eastern slope to feed the Comstock Lode, and the mines ate timber the way cities ate bread. Shoring, stalls, cribbing, lagging: every foot of shaft needed wood, and every stick of wood had to come down off a mountain that had no road. The timber stood at 7,000 feet. The mills and the mines stood at 4,500 feet and below.

Oxen could not make the grade with a full load. A railroad would have cost more than the timber was worth, and the grade was wrong anyway. But there was water, always water on those east-facing slopes: snowmelt ran every spring until August, and in some canyons it ran all year. So Haines drew up a flume.

He was not the first man in the Sierra to do it. His kinsman J. W. Haines had built shorter flumes in the 1860s, and the V-shaped design had been worked out a few years before that by a man named James Flint.

But what James Haines drew up in 1890 was longer, steeper, and carried more timber per hour than anything anyone had tried: fifty-four miles from the high timber down to the railhead, a wooden river pitched at a grade a log could ride. The machine itself was almost absurdly simple. A V-flume was two boards, each sixteen inches wide, sometimes twenty-four, set at a ninety-degree angle to each other like a long trough tipped on its edge. The bottom of the V was a joint sealed with pitch.

The top was open to the sky. You filled that trough with water pulled from a creek at the top of the mountain, dropped the logs in, and gravity did the rest. A log floated in, rode the current, and came out the bottom an hour later, where a man with a pike pole was waiting to pull it into the mill pond. No engine, no boiler, no gears, no fuel bill.

A flume that could move more timber in a day than fifty teams of horses could move in a month, powered entirely by snowmelt the mountain was going to send downhill anyway. The drop was 4,500 feet. On the steeper sections, logs reached speeds of sixty miles an hour. On a flume running at a two percent grade, a log rode at walking pace.

At six percent, it moved faster than a horse could gallop. A rectangular trough would have dragged logs on a flat bottom and needed far more water to move a load. The V let a log ride high in the water, touching only the seam, almost frictionless. Haines calculated the pitch of each section of his fifty-four miles by eye and by test, running small logs through new sections before he trusted big ones.

If a section ran too fast, he shimmed up the trestle under one end. If it ran too slow, he rebuilt the trestle lower and tried again. Building it was another story entirely. Flume crews worked on slopes so steep they could not stand up straight.

They drove timber trestles into canyon walls to carry the trough across ravines a hundred feet deep. In one section of the Haines flume, the trough ran along a granite face with a drop of three hundred feet straight down into a boulder field. The bridge crew hung in rope harnesses to notch the anchors. A man slipped, and that was the end of the man.

They buried him where they could and cut another beam. The day-to-day life on a flume line was its own particular kind of hard. The bridge crews lived in shanty camps stretched along the line, one camp every five or six miles, each a cluster of canvas tents and a cookhouse made of flume boards the company could not use. Up at five, breakfast of flapjacks and beans and coffee black enough to stand a spoon in.

Out to the line by lantern. The pitch crew heated tar all day over a brazier that smoked the sky for half a mile. The axemen notched bents. The rigger chief called grades off a level made from a glass bottle of water.

Noon meal came out on a handcart running on the catwalk planks. Stew, bread, dried apple pie on Sundays if the cook felt like it. Ten minutes to eat, back to the beam. Quitting time came when it got too dark to see the notch line.

Men walked back to camp on the catwalk itself, boots on the planks, the trough running full of water under the boards to their right, and nobody looked down if they could help it. Saturday was payday in most camps. Sunday was off if the foreman allowed it. Mail came up on the last handcart on Saturday and went out on the first one Monday morning.

Per Nygard had been one of the flume herders, the men who walked the line. A herder carried a long hooked pole and a bucket of pitch. His job was to keep the flume running. If a log turned sideways and lodged in the trough, he had to lean out over the water, drive the hook in, and wrench it free before the logs stacking up behind it took the whole section of flume off the mountain.

If a seam split and water started pouring out over the cliff, he patched it with hot pitch from a brazier he kept on the catwalk. He walked eight to ten miles of flume a day, in rain, in snow, on a board catwalk eighteen inches wide, with a drop to the rocks below that a man tried very hard not to look at. Per Nygard was twenty-two when he hired on, born in Telemark, Norway, brought to Minnesota by an uncle at fourteen, worked three seasons in the pineries around Stillwater, and drifted west to the Sierra in 1889 because a cousin had written him that the wages were better. He was five foot ten, 170 pounds, with pale hair bleached almost white by the sun.

He made $2. 50 a day. He sent half of it to a girl named Astrid in Stillwater, whom he intended to marry as soon as he had three hundred dollars saved. He kept a small notebook in his coat pocket.

Three entries a week: weather, distance walked, how much pitch he used. He was saving every penny. In October of 1891, a log jammed at a bend where the flume swung around a granite shoulder at the thirty-two-mile mark. The logs behind it piled in fast.

Per Nygard got there, leaned out with his hook, and worked the jam. The second log came loose and kicked sideways. The tail end of it caught him above the hip. That was the whole sequence, the whole event that ended him, and it took less time than it takes to describe.

On the steeper sections of the flume, the speed made accidents like his worse than they otherwise might have been. A twenty-foot log weighing 2,000 pounds, moving faster than a galloping horse, inside a wooden trough already trying to shake itself to pieces. When one of those logs hit a bend wrong, it punched through the side of the flume like a battering ram. Whole sections of trough blew out in a spray of splintered pine.

A herder on the catwalk had a second, maybe two, to find something to hold. The second man, Elias Warburton, had more time than most to think about what that meant. Born in 1854 in a mill town outside Portland, Maine, his father a sawyer who lost his right hand in a circular saw when Elias was nine, the family moved west in 1870 because Maine was cut and there was nothing left to saw. Elias worked his way across the country one lumber camp at a time.

By 1888, he was a bridge foreman for the Carson and Tahoe Lumber and Fluming Company, the man responsible for the sections where the trough crossed open air: ravines, side canyons, creek bottoms. His crew could build 150 feet of flume trestle a day across a sixty-foot ravine, using only the trees they felled that morning, notched with axes, pegged with oak trunnels, cross-braced with green fir that was still sweating sap. Stringers laid, then the trough pinned on top, and water in it before the week was out. These were not bridges the way we think of bridges.

No steel, no concrete, no engineer in a white hat with a slide rule. The bridge foreman looked at the ravine, chose his anchors, and told his men to start cutting. If a trestle failed in the first winter, which happened, the company rebuilt it. If it lasted seven years, which was the usual target, they did not rebuild it, because by then the timber above it was gone and the whole flume would be abandoned.

In August of 1892, Elias Warburton was inspecting a trestle joint at the nineteen-mile marker on the Haines line when a jam broke loose two miles up. A twenty-four-foot sugar pine came down the trough at him. He heard the roar. He had two seconds to decide.

The catwalk above him had already buckled. He jumped for the trough. He rode that flume for eighteen miles. His own account, given to a reporter from the Reno Evening Gazette in 1893 and preserved on microfilm, is one of the strangest documents in American labor history.

He said the water was cold enough to numb him in the first mile. He said the logs behind him kept catching up, and he had to keep shoving off them to ride forward instead of being crushed. He said at one point the flume swung out over a canyon, and he could see his own boots against the sky and the tops of pine trees a hundred feet below him. He said he thought of his wife.

He said he prayed the plank prayer, which he described as: “Lord, hold the boards. ”

The boards held. At the thirty-seven-mile mark, the flume grade flattened and the current slowed enough that a pitch crew at the Clear Creek delivery yard saw him coming, jumped into the trough themselves, and hauled him out onto the bank. He had lost one boot, most of his clothes, and the skin off both forearms.

But he lived. He went back to work three weeks later. He worked eleven more years for the Carson and Tahoe. He died in 1904 of what the doctor called “exhaustion of the lungs,” which was probably pneumonia compounded by a cold August ride in 1892 he never quite shook.

Most of the men who went in did not come out that way. There were three others on the Haines line alone in a five-year span whose names survive in Alpine County Coroner’s records. One was a Chinese laborer whose given name was never recorded, only the company’s notation: “Ah Lee, pitch hand, drowned 14 mile, winter 1889. ” One was a fifteen-year-old catwalk boy named Tommaso Ricci, whose mother ran a boarding house in Gardnerville and who sent her his pay in an envelope every second Friday until the Friday the envelope did not come.

One was a Paiute worker named Jim Sam, who had built flume sections for four different companies and drowned at the mouth of the Clear Creek delivery on a morning when the river ice let go upstream and a wall of cold water hit the yard before anybody could whistle. They are buried in three different cemeteries, and none of their graves has a marker that mentions the flume. You can stand over any one of them and not know what killed the man beneath your feet. The flumes existed for one reason: the Comstock Lode.

Virginia City, Nevada in the 1870s was consuming eighty million board feet of timber a year. Shoring for the square-set mine stopes Philip Deidesheimer had designed in 1860. Cordwood for the boilers that ran the stamp mills. Lumber for the houses, the saloons, the opera house.

All of it came from the eastern slope of the Sierra Nevada, twenty miles west and 4,000 feet higher than the mines. J. W. Haines built one of the first serious flumes in 1868, running from Spooner Summit down toward Carson City: twelve miles.

Then the Pacific Wood, Lumber and Flume Company built a longer one. Then the Carson and Tahoe outfit built longer ones still. By the late 1870s, flumes ran off every major canyon on the east slope, and the wood they delivered was keeping a state’s worth of mines from caving in. A single flume could move more timber per day than fifty teams of horses working full out.

A Carson and Tahoe shareholder report for 1882 records 500 cords of wood and 150,000 board feet of lumber delivered in one fourteen-hour working day from one flume. The horse equivalent would have been impossible. You could not have put enough horses on those mountains to do what the water did. The bridges that carried that water were calculated to survive about ten to fifteen years, which was roughly the life of the timber stand the flume was built to drain.

A hundred-foot trestle across a ravine, built by men in rope harnesses, anchored into notches cut into granite, would last that long and then be abandoned, because the timber above it was gone. A few sections of the old flume number one on the east slope were still standing in 1930, when a fire took them. But that was the exception. A flume was built to drain one timber stand.

When the stand was gone, the flume was abandoned. The company pulled the best boards off the nearest sections to sell, and the rest was left to weather. In five years a Sierra flume was sagging. In ten years the trestles were dropping.

In twenty-five years you could walk a canyon where a flume had carried 200,000 board feet a day and find only the occasional square-cut board under the pine duff. What the flumes built is worth stopping on, because the men paid for it with their bodies and the mountains paid for it with their oldest trees. We got the Comstock Lode, most of the silver that backed the American dollar in the last third of the nineteenth century. We got the cities of the California interior, framed out of sugar pine and ponderosa floated down wooden channels.

We got the railroad trestles on the Central Pacific line east of Truckee. We got a significant part of the building stock of San Francisco before the 1906 fire took half of it. The flumes carried so much timber down off the eastern slope that the slope itself is a different mountain now than it was in 1870. Whole canyons of old-growth sugar pine went through the Haines flume in the span of fifteen years.

The second growth that came back was smaller, thinner, and mostly fir. The slope on the Nevada side has still not recovered the canopy it had when James Haines first rode up it with a survey chain. I have gone through the records on these flumes. Mill ledgers.

County assessor maps. Payroll sheets written in pencil on brown paper. Letters from the camps, folded so many times the ink has worn through at the creases. One of them reads: “Dear Astrid, I am well.

The mountains here are higher than any mountain in Norway. Tell your mother I have her recipe in my coat. I will be home in the spring. Per.

”

The story that keeps coming back is how quiet these structures are in the history books, and how loud they must have been in the canyons. A log flume running full sounded like a freight train that never stopped. You could hear one from two miles away at night. Water and green timber roaring through a wooden trough pinned to a cliff.

In the memory of the eastern slope, almost nothing remains of it. But if you drive a forest road on the east slope of the Sierra Nevada or in the Cascades of Oregon or Washington, and the road crosses a small creek, and you get out of your truck and walk fifty yards upstream and look carefully at the banks, you will sometimes see a notch cut into the granite. A square notch, eighteen inches wide, three inches deep, filled with moss. That was a flume anchor.

In 1882 or 1891 or 1905, a bridge crew drove an iron pin into that notch and bolted a timber bent to it. From that bent they strung a wooden trough that ran along the cliff for half a mile. Sugar pine logs rode that trough at forty miles an hour. A man named Per or Elias or Jim Sam walked the catwalk beside them with a pike pole.

Another man heated pitch in a brazier at the next anchor down. All of them are gone. The flume is gone. The sugar pine is gone.

But the notch is still there. The iron stain is still in the rock. If you push the moss aside, sometimes you will find the stub of a pin still driven into the granite. Nobody stopped to mark the spot.

No plaque, no marker. Just the notch in the cliff, and the men who rode a wooden river down a mountain and are not in any book. Fifty-four miles of wooden flume. Four thousand five hundred feet of drop.

Logs at sixty miles per hour. Hundreds of flume herders and bridge builders and pitch men. Fifteen years, and then gone. That was the great log flumes of America, 1870 to 1910.

That was the work that fed the mines and framed the cities and cleared the mountains you drive through today.

Related Posts

In 1900, guests at the Holloway Hotel in Newton County, Arkansas, kept vanishing from the same three rooms on the eastern wing. Seamstress Mary Carver left her sewing kit behind. Bible salesman…

The scratching started again around midnight, constant now, and Mary Ellis knew she would not sleep. She lay in her narrow room at the end of the third-floor corridor and listened to the sound working its way up through the building’s bones, a rhythmic scrape, scrape, scrape that came from somewhere below the floorboards. Mr. … Read more

In the 1980s, a high school rumor could travel through an entire building by lunchtime without a single text, group chat, or post. Someone whispered “after school, by the bleachers,” and the whole…

The whole school was already there by the time the circle closed. No one had sent a single message, no group chat existed, no one had posted anything anywhere, yet by lunchtime everyone knew the fight would happen after last bell, next to the bleachers. That was how news traveled then: whispered from locker to … Read more

In 1950, Roy Cox spent eight months building a tiny engine from scratch, holding tolerances of 25 millionths of an inch—any piston that deviated went straight in the trash. The Cox 049, a working…

The sound carried three backyards on a Saturday morning without even trying. Thin and slightly wrong, like something spinning faster than it had any right to. If you grew up anywhere in America between 1955 and 1985, you knew exactly what it was. It was the Cox 049, a working internal combustion engine machined to … Read more

In November 1909, authorities in Shannon County, Missouri, entered the Warren homestead and found the beds made, the pantry stocked, and a half-written letter on Thomas Warren’s desk. Thomas and…

Idaho Press-Tribune, October 17, 1907—that was the date stamped on the clipping, but the story itself was older, and stranger, and it began long before the newspaper ever touched it. It began, as so many things do, in the dark of a Missouri autumn. In the autumn of 1909, when the leaves turned copper and … Read more

In March 1923, Clarence Saunders cornered Wall Street itself. Working through a broker and southern banks, the Memphis grocer quietly bought nearly ev…

In the summer of 1923, on a hill at the eastern edge of Memphis, a half-finished mansion of pink Georgia marble rose against the sky. The man who ordered every stone placed there walked to the gate, handed the keys to his creditors, and never lived in the house. His name was Clarence Saunders, and … Read more

In 1848, Samuel Knap’s men dug 18 feet into a filled-in pit near Michigan’s Ontonagon River and struck a single mass of nearly pure copper—six tons of it. But the copper wasn’t lying on the floor….

The copper tool came out of a mining pit in Michigan and went to a laboratory. The lab returned a date of 8,500 years old. Hold that number, because it breaks something. That tool was already ancient when the first pyramid in Egypt was still only an idea in someone’s head. It was already old … Read more

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *